Mastering the Art of Composting: Avoiding Common Mistakes
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It seems that I might not fare well in a post-apocalyptic world, primarily due to my composting failures. Many of us, myself included, are not approaching composting correctly.
Initially, composting appears to be a straightforward task. Simply gather organic waste—food scraps, vegetable peels, yard debris, sticks, and anything biodegradable. Toss it all into a pile in an out-of-the-way spot and wait.
In theory, this material should decompose and transform into nutrient-rich soil, not just the dull dirt I often track indoors, but a robust, dark loam that exudes the essence of fertile earth.
At this stage, it’s important to note that what we want isn’t mere dirt; dirt is lifeless. What we seek is vibrant, living soil.
Throughout my life, I’ve harbored a peculiar, almost romantic notion about composting. I've attempted it several times in various locations, feeling it to be more gratifying than merely tossing recyclables into a bin for collection.
And yet, with each attempt, I’ve met with failure.
It seems baffling—how can one mess up composting? It appears to be as simple as placing waste in a pile and letting it be. To me, a compost heap should operate quietly in the background, like well-behaved Victorian children, offering comfort without causing disruption.
However, when I initiated my compost pile, tossing in some weeds and food scraps, I would return weeks later to discover a foul, putrid mess teeming with flies.
At times, I would allow it to continue, hoping that this was merely a temporary setback. Even when the insects dissipated, the compost would sulk, refusing to decompose.
Eventually, late last year, I resolved to investigate what I was doing wrong in my quest to let organic materials decay in a pile.
Upon research, I uncovered some significant errors in my approach.
The Compost Balance: Understanding Brown and Green Materials
It appears that, like any living entity, compost requires a balanced diet of materials to thrive. I had been mistakenly providing the wrong components.
At its core, compost thrives on two primary ingredients: carbon and nitrogen. Both are crucial for microbial life, which is responsible for converting yard and kitchen waste into nutrient-dense soil (for plants, not for human consumption).
The Nitrogen Overload
The most significant error that hindered my composting efforts? A lack of carbon.
Many of the items I thought were suitable for compost—kitchen scraps, weeds, vegetable trimmings, grass clippings—are high in nitrogen. While nitrogen is essential, compost heaps actually need a greater proportion of carbon, typically around 30 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen.
When a compost pile is overloaded with nitrogen, it tends to decay rapidly, emitting a sulfurous odor and releasing much of that nitrogen as greenhouse gases.
This was precisely the situation with my compost pile.
Fortunately, the remedy is simple: add more carbon. Carbon-rich items include dead leaves, pine needles, twigs (broken into smaller pieces), bark, sawdust, paper, and cardboard. The latter two are particularly easy to incorporate.
So, no need to fret about recycling all those cardboard boxes from your online orders. Simply tear them up or shred them, and toss them into your compost!
The Carbon Imbalance
Conversely, it is also possible to have too much carbon. While carbon is essential for microbial growth, nitrogen from plant matter is necessary for creating vital enzymes.
An excess of carbon results in a compost heap that is essentially a fiber-rich meal devoid of fats and proteins. What happens when you serve a child only fiber? They sit there, pouting, and refuse to eat.
This is akin to an overly carbon-heavy compost heap, which becomes dry and inactive, halting the decomposition process.
The solution is to restore balance by adding more green materials, such as yard clippings, weeds, or vegetable scraps.
The Importance of Ratios in Composting
Earlier, I mentioned the ideal ratio of 30 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen.
However, this shouldn't dictate the exact quantity of materials added! Otherwise, you’ll end up with a towering cardboard mountain topped with a solitary leaf. Remember, even green materials contain carbon, and cardboard has significantly more carbon than plant matter.
Instead, aim for a 2:1 ratio, but adjust depending on what you're adding.
If you’re including light, loose dead leaves or twigs for brown materials, use twice as much brown material, by volume, as green.
If you're adding dense brown materials like cardboard or tightly packed dead leaves, use twice as much green material, by volume, as brown.
And don’t forget, you can—and should—keep adding more materials! If the pile smells bad, it’s calling out for carbon. If it’s cold and dry, it needs more green, nitrogen-rich materials.
Essential Additions and Avoidances
Another critical error in my composting approach was not only adding the wrong materials but also neglecting to include a host of beneficial items.
Numerous items are compostable, while a few should never be included in a standard compost heap. For instance:
Should Be Added: - Coffee grounds (green) — and paper filters, too! - Eggshells (though raw eggs can attract pests) - Cotton balls and Q-tips (brown) - Hair (brown) — cut your hair outside to nourish the compost! - Old clothing or rags made of natural fibers—cotton, silk, or wool (brown) - Paper bags from shopping (brown) - Freezer-burned fruits or vegetables (green) - Pet bedding from small animals like hamsters (brown).
While many other items can enhance your compost, several should be strictly avoided:
Should Not Be Added: - Dairy products. Cheese may decompose, but it also creates odor and attracts pests. - Cooking oils and meats. Similar to dairy, they can create unpleasant smells and attract scavengers. - Glossy paper, such as magazines. The coatings are toxic, hindering decomposition and potentially harming plants if the compost is used later. - Coal or charcoal from grilling. Though rich in carbon, they contain excessive sulfur. Small amounts of wood ash from campfires are acceptable. - Cat or dog waste. These can introduce harmful bacteria and parasites. - Plants that died from disease. Many pathogens can survive in the compost, leading to re-infection of your plants. - Weeds with seeds. Many seeds can survive composting, resulting in the spread of weeds when the compost is used.
Composting: Hot or Cold?
Feeling overwhelmed? It’s understandable! I once thought composting was as simple as tossing waste into a pile and letting nature work its magic. However, like the choice between academic pursuits or sports for a child, you must decide early on whether your compost will be hot or cold.
Hot composting is faster but requires more effort, while cold composting is less intensive but takes longer.
Hot composting involves specific steps: 1. The pile must be sufficiently large, at least 3 feet on each side (including height). 2. A closely monitored 2:1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio is necessary. 3. Regular turning of the pile is crucial, ideally 2-3 times a week. 4. Maintaining moisture is important. 5. It’s best to build the pile all at once.
That’s quite a bit of work! But the benefit is rapid decomposition, with soil ready in about two months.
Cold composting, however, takes a year to produce soil but requires less effort. You can add materials gradually, and it’s less critical to maintain an ideal carbon-to-nitrogen ratio.
Conclusion: Getting It Right This Time
I currently have a compost pile in my backyard once more.
This time, I believe it will succeed. I’ve learned from my previous mistakes and have the right balance of brown materials, such as cardboard and paper, and green materials, like vegetable scraps and garden weeds.
I’m incorporating beneficial items like coffee grounds and excluding detrimental ones like dairy, meat, seeds, or ashes.
Since I lack the resources for hot composting, this pile will take longer to yield high-quality soil, but I’m confident I can achieve it. I’m opting for the simpler method of cold composting, and sometimes, this easier path leads to success.
Despite my earlier misconceptions, composting isn’t merely throwing waste into a pile and expecting nature to do its thing. It requires careful planning and execution. Yet, I still believe that the benefits—both for my garden and my satisfaction in transforming waste into useful soil—will be worthwhile.